Later the same day we sail around the small island in front of the bay. Now we have to name the commands ourselves and to sail the necessary manoeuvres for the best course. Uh, broad reaching now? “No, nonsense, luff up, the wind comes from starboard.” Luzie is always the fastest. She already knows the next manoeuvre intuitively.

Finally we pull down the jib and the main sail and jump into the water for a swim. On our way back to the bay it suddenly happens: Woman overboard! I sit at the helm and luff a bit too much. Luzie does not release the main sheet and slides into the water. We tack and turn the boat and bring her back on board again.

On the way to Donkey Bay

In the morning of the fourth day we start a day trip with three boats to the island Kaprije, some nautical miles away. With a light Maestral we make good progress at 3-4 Beaufort. The sailing region, surrounded by small islands, is beautiful. In a small bay we moor below a restaurant on the slope.

On the shady terrace we are welcomed by a donkey at the bar. Mia lives here since one month, after her previous owners had to hand her over. She came by boat and is now the attraction of the bay. Everyone makes selfies and cuddles her.

We eat fresh fish directly from the grill and give the remains to the baby kittens, who live right at our feet on the restaurant’s railing. While we are relaxing in the shadow, the bay slowly fills up with boats for lunch. Charter crews are practicing to dock, big catamarans are bobbing at anchor. We take an espresso and a refreshing bath and sail back.

Next stop: Kornati Islands

Our course ends on Friday evening, the next guests arrive on Saturday and the new course starts on Sunday. This time the crews go to the Kornati Islands. “This is the most beautiful sailing area”, says Barbara in her calm and cordial way. And smiles. If I can make it I will join this tour in September, there’s still some free place left. Otherwise in any case next year – we will come back, no question needed.

Let's go Kornati © Kerstin Zillmer

All further information about the courses can be found at the Free Spirit Sailing schedule on the web.